Walking lower Sukhumvit – all of it
No one ever talks about walking tours on Sukhumvit road. Maybe because there doesn’t seem to be much history to the area, and there’s only so many store fronts you can see before you get bored with it. Partly out of boredom and partly out of procrastination, I thought I’d give it a go. I would walk from the end of the current BTS Sukhumvit line (On Nut station) to the start of Sukhumvit road (BTS Phloen Chit). To keep myself from daydreaming, I’d also count the 7/11 or Family Mart convenience stores that I’d run into along the way (though I’m sure I missed a few, daydreaming cannot be stopped). Here’s how it went.
On Nut – Phra Khanong
Start Time: 9:51 am, Finish: 10:12 am (21 minutes)
Camera in hand, I beg walking back into the city. Passing the moo katar resturaunts (though the best one is closer to Phra Khanong) I cross the khlong – the only one I’ll meet on the journey. It’s a pity – like most khlongs in BKK it’s pretty dirty, and isn’t all that nice to look at – but does provide a bit of difference in you have to cross a little footbridge, instead of the boring footpath along the rest of Sukhumvit. It is partly surrounded by slums so isn’t the most attractive approaching, however on the Phra Khanong side of the khlong it does have old nice wooden houses lining the street with shops selling sticky rice baskets and brooms. Further along markets begin lining the footpath, with quite possibly the lowest roofs in Bangkok. Stooping my head constantly I walk through the fruit stalls, I arrive in the shadow of the Phra Khanong BTS station. Damn it’s dark down here on street level.
Mini Marts seen: 1 7/11, 1 Family Mart
Boat stop and houses at the khlong in Phra Khanong, under Sukhumvit road
Phra Khanong – Ekkamai
Start Time: 10:13 am, Finish: 10:26 am (13 minutes)
Moving on past Phra Khanong, and boy, is it uninteresting. It’s not bad, but there’s nothing to really look at. There’s no one around selling things, meaning the footpaths are wide open – which is ok if you want to up your speed. However there is a golf driving range here for you to unleash any frustrations you may have – so a potential good break for those drivers sick of the gridlock on Sukhumvit Road. Closer to Ekkamai station there’s a large temple complex, complete with it’s own “Puff and Pie” shop on premises. Now that’s thinking about the needs of your worshipers.
Mini Marts seen: 2 7/11, 1 Family Mart
Puff & Pie on temple grounds near Ekkamai BTS, for those who worked up an appetite
Ekkamai – Thong Lor
Start Time: 10:14 am, Finish: 10:44 am (30 minutes)
Recently finished, now you can get all your necessary (and sometimes vain) medical needs at the Bangkok Mediplex just outside of the station, and maybe even buy your 3 million baht condo upstairs while you’re at it. Great.. am really getting into the hi-so condo area of town where money really rules. But a little further on, I’m realizing it’s not all bad. The south side of the street is lined with trees, thanks to the Planetarium and UNESCO offices. I’ve been on the road now for an hour, and am getting thirsty. At a drink stall I ask the guy standing next to it for a bottle of orange juice that’s on ice. He looks at me, smiles and shrugs. Oh, you don’t work there. I apologize and slink off with my hands in my pockets.
Mini Marts seen: 5 7/11, 1 Family Mart
On the street in front of UNESCO, which has a pleasant feel to it.
Thong Lor – Phrom Phong
Start Time: 10:45 am, Finish: 11:07 am (22 minutes)
Construction is the order of the day outside of Thong Lor BTS, and the footpath is reduced to a width suitable for one person. I wait for some construction workers to finish some angle grinding, and they let me through, asking me how I’m doing on the way. “Fine thanks, and you?” I start to look down the soi’s as I pass for something of interest. More condo’s being built. How about a public park instead!? I admire the barber shop named “Never Say Cutz” – it’s front window states it’s “Mens barber shop and unisex”, whatever that means. Thinking that a haircut would ruin my walk completion time, plus as I can’t remember how to say hair cut in Thai and I’m not allowed to say “cutz” in there, I move on and come across Sukhumvit soi 30. This is a nice looking soi. No big developments, trees thickly lining one side of the street, and people going about their business quietly. A friendly store owner there is amused that I don’t want a plastic bag with my bottle of water. Pretty crazy eh? Soi 28 is almost better, though they’ve got a big condo development going on. Just 100m into the soi and there are some HUGE houses down here, with very nice tree coverage. It feels like you’re far from the centre of BKK. If only I could get in past those security guards to sit on their lawn under a tree. Upon arrival at Phrom Phong station, I’m drawn to the intriguing combination of French lounge music complimenting the Chinese lanterns decorated outside the Emporium. Plus the clean public toilets inside.
Mini Marts seen: 3 7/11, 1 Family Mart
Looking down Sukhumvit Soi 30
Phrom Phong – Asok
Start Time: 11:12 am, Finish: 11:31 am (19 minutes)
Once I walk past the only public park en route (Benjasiri), the trees are now gone and we’re getting into the business part of town. Tailors and tuk tuk drives pop up, vendors are on every street corner in front of office towers, and traffic is the worst it’s been so far (not that this is a problem for me). This is getting close to the “real” Bangkok most would have you believe. On the sky walk ahead of the Asok BTS, you’ve got one of the best views \in central Bangkok of the horrid traffic as you cross over Rachadapisek road. Merely 6 lanes of traffic stretching back 100’s of metres are waiting patiently at the lights. Onwards, next to Asok BTS it’s very relieving to see that they are building another shopping centre (to be named Terminal 21), to help make sure we can continue to live the consumerist lifestyle without venturing too far from our hotels or condo’s.
Mini Marts seen: 4 7/11, 1 Family Mart
One reason why you should have a motorbike in Bangkok.
Asok – Nana
Start Time: 11:33 am, Finish: 11:43 am (10 minutes)
Markets fill the footpaths selling Thai boxing shorts, wood carvings, “iPood” tshirts, 3D nude images, knives, and it should be said, alot of porn DVD’s. It could be one of two places in Bangkok, but if it was Patpong there’s also be talk of table tennis, or something like that. Yep, it’s the Sukhumvit street market and it’s really nothing special. Though I am impressed with the young vendor who selection of black belts have been immaculately presented in his stall. Walking along here is frustrating, as you’ll get stuck behind families or couples checking out a 200 baht Singha t-shirt, and blocking the path left narrow by the shops. If you’re just passing through these parts, the best option is to take the southern side of the street, which has far fewer shops. Pushing on, I soon arrive at Nana BTS.. damn that was fast! Looking through all that rubbish, avoiding bottlenecks and avoiding touts isn’t boring, and makes the time fly.
Mini Marts seen: 1 7/11, 0 Family Mart
Sukhumvit street market, for all the poor quality shirts you could ever want.
Nana – Phloen Chit
Start Time: 11:46 am, Finish: 12:00 am (14 minutes)
Sadly, the passing of the Nana BTS doesn’t see to the passing of the Sukhumvit market stalls, thought it does get seedier. Ladies wait at bus stops, but never seem to catch a bus. Foreigners around here seem to get greyer, older and have bigger pot bellies than they did before. Thankfully crossing over soi 3 is like walking from night into day. The tourist crap markets stop, and the city takes on an appearance that is appealing again. Street vendors sell fruit and Thai snacks instead of t-shirts and DVD’s. The path seems wider. Crowds of slow moving shopping foreigners are replaced by quietly chatting Thai’s taking their lunch break. This is the real Bangkok. Just under an overpass nearing Phloen Chit, an open air day market has opened for the lunch break. The smell draws me in, but I’ve almost finished my walk, I don’t want to stop. I arrive at my final destination, Phloen Chit BTS. Time for lunch at that market.
Mini Marts seen: 1 7/11, 0 Family Mart
Lunchtime shopping at Phloen Chit market
I’ve made it, in far less time than I was expecting (2 hrs 9 mins to cover 7.5km). While this route won’t be added into a walking tour itinerary anytime soon, the walk wasn’t boring nor or too difficult. On Nut – Phra Khanong was most interesting, but closer into the city has alot more going on. I was surprised that I didn’t note more convenience stores, but sometimes they’re well hidden deeper in the sois. Well another day not-so-well spent, and now back to doing what I’m meant to be on.
